At this point we can not recommend using the white graphite (at least our version).  We used the “Azure” Njord as a long term testbed for the white graphite.  After a year of use in both salt and fresh water we came to the conclusion that although it worked great in regards to abrasion, it actually stained (fouled) quite easily. It was very difficult to keep white.   Notice the staining in the images below.

The hull needed to be recoated. One option was to modify the white graphite (perhaps adding some dry Teflon would help?). Another thought was to add the white graphite powder into a topside urethane paint (something I may look into). In the end the hull was recoated with a hard epoxy-based bottom paint made by Interlux called “VC Performance Epoxy.”  It’s designed for trailered sail and power boats and can be burnished.  It sprays beautifully through my HVLP gun and has no nasty isocyantes like the urethanes.  We did not make test samples of the bottom paint for the drag sled. We should have.  It would have been interesting.   It is now the standard for white-colored hulls.

The black graphite mixture using West 423 powder is proven and whole-heartily endorsed. The hull of the one commercial kayak I made last year (a real hybrid: strip hull and SOF deck) was coated with black graphite.   From what I have heard it has held up very well.

In summary: All of our white-colored hulls will now be coated with either VC Performance Epoxy or a urethane.  For now, I will not support or endorse the use of my version of the white graphite.  Black-colored hulls can be coated in either graphite (preferred) or a urethane.  All other surfaces (decks, accessories, etc) will be coated in a colored or clear urethane.   Until we have a spray-booth Interlux Perfection urethane applied by rolling and tipping will be standard.  As an option any urethane surface can be professionally sprayed with an automotive-style hi-performance urethane, for a slight increase in cost.  Also, for those that prefer a traditional look and feel, I will gladly substitute the urethane with a one-pot marine varnish for any boats finished bright.

Dan

2008.01 "Azure" Njord

16 Photos

2008.01 "Azure" Njord - Construction

137 Photos

Boat Design

Njord design by Björn Thomasson Design. Basic design scaled to approximately 93%.

• LOA = 17.06 ft (520.0 cm)
• Beam = 19.29 in (49 cm)
• Finished Weight = 39 lb (17.7 kg)

Options

Core

• 3/16″ Northern White Cedar

Fiberglass Schedule

• Exterior Layup:  4oz S-2 Cloth.
• Interior Layup: Deck: 4oz S-2, Hull: 4oz Zylon aramid

Paint Options

• Hull Exterior: CSFW “White Graphite” Coating.  Three coats rubbed to a semi-gloss sheen.  In 2009 it was recoated with Interlux VC Performance Epoxy bottom paint.
• Deck Exterior: Interlux Brightsides Y4353 Medium Blue cut 20% with Y4359 White. 2 Coats.
• Interior: Two coats of CSFW “White Graphite” Coating

Coaming

• Solid Carbon Fiber w/ Full Recess
• Rough opening: 66 x 40 (26.0″ x 15.75″)
• Lip dimensions (clearances): Height = 5/8″ (15mm), 1/8″ (3.1 mm) thick, Width = 1-1/4″ wide (31 mm) and flat across.

Cockpit Outfitting

• Seat: Molded custom carbon fiber seat, integrated with read bulkhead.
• Backrest: None as designed.
• CF padeyes per approved locations

Outfitting

• Deck Fittings & Lines
• Deck Fittings: Recessed carbon fiber with 1/4″ diameter stainless steel pins.
• Deck Lines: 3/16? Neocorp SportCord (Black) and 1/4″ Griprite bungee. Locations per approval drawing.
• Paddle Holders: Bungee cord on fore deck.
• Toggles: Carbon fiber tubes.
• CF paddle park with security provisions.

Bulkheads

• Fore only. Fiberglassed wood strip panels (4 oz S-2 glass).

Footbraces

• Foam on Bulkhead: Mounted to front bulkhead.

Hatches

• Fore: Valley Canoe Products (VCP) 7.5 round rubber in painted CF recess.
• Aft:  VCP 16×9 Oval Rubber in painted CF recess
• Lids to be tethered.

Compass

• Ritchie RU-90 Voyager Compass installed in painted CF recess.

Total Build Time = 151.67 Hours

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This was the first kayak where my customer lived close enough that he could stop by periodically.  At one such meeting we went over the layout of all the deck lines and hardware.  We marked the physical locations directly on the deck (recently fiberglassed).   It was a great experience.  We accomplished more in a 3 hour meeting than in weeks of e-mails.  All that’s left to complete the “Azure” is to run the final decklines, make/install the carbon fiber toggles and foam out the cockpit. 

We kept the hi-techlook going by using carbon fiber tubes for the grab toggles.  They’re not lifting handles!   To make the tubes I basically followed the directions on the Soller Composites website and used their biaxial carbon fiber braid and heat shrink tubing. First I made a mandrel (mold) from a piece of 3/4″ copper water pipe.  I polished it up, covered it with petroleum jellly (Vaseline) and then tape a piece of clear PVC over that for the final form release. I then laminated the mandrel with 4 layers of  2″ diameter braid.  The heat shrink tubing then squeezed most of the extra resin. The next day I cut off the heat strink and pulled the shaft off of the mandrel.  The toggles were cut to length, sanded smooth, drilled to accept the cord and then clear coated with Perfection Varnish.  They were attached to the ends by a section of 3/16″ cord pulled through double-drilled holes in the ends of the kayak.  They’re held with stopper knots inside the toggle.  Simple and very effective.  Each toggle is about 1″ (26.7 mm OD) in diameter and has walls about 0.070″ (1.8 mm) thick.  Each toggles weighs about 28 grams (about an ounce).

For footbraces the fore bulkhead was padded with pieces of minicell.  Five layers of differing thickness allow 6″ of foot brace adjustment in about 3/4″ increments.  Super-comfy and simple.

I normally also hand-deliver my boats if possible.  My customer offered to pick up the boat the shop.  We did the deck lines together.  Even with our prior meetings we still changed them a few times before tying them off.   Before we tied them off we applied some clear protective anti-scratch tape to select areas of the deck that would be subjected to wear.  It’s normally used on off-road trucks and cars.  The perimeter line is 3/16″ polyester Sportcord.  The bungees are 1/4″.

While he was there we also foamed out the cockpit.  Most the time was spent padding out the thigh-hooks.  They ended up being a bit too small so we glued on some scrap carbon-fiber sheet and extended them forward.  They were then padded out with minicell.

Completion!!  Finished weight of 39 pounds (17.7 kg).  It came in a bit heavier than we wanted.  It’s still respectable for a composite hi-performance sea-kayak.

We didn’t have time that afternoon for a proper maiden voyage so we moved the “Azure” outside for a few beauty shots.   Lena was taking her nap so couldn’t sit in the boat (she IS our official boat tester).  Danielle took over that duty.  She really liked the seat.

After my customer left I cleaned the shop and stored the strongback to await the next kayak…  For now, I need a break!

Total Construction Time: 151.67 Hours  (It was about 30 hours over my original estimate… oh well.)

I do have another project lined up.  It’s a bit different and not a boat: an acoustic 6-string guitar.  I’m building it as a Christmas gift for my in-laws.  Should be a nice change of pace.  No epoxy either!! =D

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A kayak without it’s final coatings looks a bit rough, almost sad.  You can kinda picture what it’s going to look like but the finish is what brings the kayak alive.  Varnish makes any wood grain or carbon fiber cloth just pop.  A nice, smooth coat of paint really shows off all the subtle curves of the deck and hull.  Luckily the new finishes are fairly easy to apply and are pretty rugged. We are trying one new feature on this Njord: the hull is coated exclusively with our new epoxy-based “white graphite.”  The deck is painted a light “Azure” blue.

The entire outside was sanded up to P120 using a combination of power and hand boards.  I then masked off the deck and rolled on three coats of white graphite on the hull to build thickness. I scuff sanded between coats with P180 sandpaper.  It was wetsanded even and then polished to a low sheen after the deck had been sprayed.

My customer had a very specific color in mind for the deck of his kayak.  He wanted it to match his old boat, a Mariner Elan.  After my abrasion test, I now prefer to use a two-component coating like Interlux Perfection.  Unfortunately Interlux doesn’t have a color in Perfection that is even close.  They do make a nice medium blue in their Brightsides line, a one-component polyurethane.  It would be a bit less rugged but being on the deck we thought it was a trade-off that could be lived with.   To get the exact color I made some sample cards of the medium blue and blended in various amounts of white.  A final mixture of blue cut with 20% white was finally chosen.

I then applied a modified version of my logo with the hull number to the deck.  The white hull was masked off and I brushed on two coats of Perfection Varnish onto all the parts to be clear-coated.  I also brushed one coat of PV onto the entire deck.   It’ll provide a nice base for the Brightsides.  The interior and clear-coated areas were masked off and two coats of the light blue were sprayed on using my HVLP gun.  Yes, I sprayed it.  Brightsides is a one-component polyurethane and doesn’t have the isocyanates like the two and three-component finishes.  All you need is some ventilation and a good mask with organic filters.  I reduced it by 10% and it sprayed wonderfully.  It was the easiest finish I have ever sprayed.  After curing for a few days I lightly polished it to a semi-gloss sheen using automotive compounds.

The kayak is looking sharp.  All that’s left is final outfitting…

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I wanted to do as much work on the inside as I can before I join the deck to the hull.  You’ve already read about the hatches, deck fittings, cockpit, paddle park and the seat/rear bulkhead.  The things left to install are the forward bulkhead, interior tie-offs, some uni-carbon fiber in strategic locations and the finish coats.  Then I could tape the seam on the inside and outside. Working through the cockpit opening and hatches taping the inside is one the least pleasant parts of the whole process but it’s so rewarding knowing the boat is coming together…

The forward bulkhead was built according to our standard method.  It’s simply wood strips (Northern White Cedar in this case) left over from stripping the deck/hull glued together as a flat panel.  Then each side of the panel is sanded and laminated with a layer of 4 oz glass.  It gets fitted and is bonded to the hull with a fillet of epoxy and a layer of glass cloth.  It’s spaced so that the toes of the paddler are 3-4 inches away from the bulkhead. It’ll get padded out later with minicell foam.

My customer carries specific dry-bags in his holds.  He requested some pad-eyes to lash them down.  He also wanted to carry his hand pump in his cockpit.  We found a nice spot at the sheer and installed pad-eyes and a hook.  All are custom made from carbon fiber.

I added longitudinal strips of carbon fiber tape to the deck and the hull in areas of high stress.  For the maximum strength instead of being woven like fabric the tape is unidirectional strands held with a few transverse fibers on one side.  I bought mine through Soller Composites in NH.

While I had the boat opened up still I applied most of the finish coat on the inside.  The entire inside received two coats of white graphite.  I taped off 1″ of the deck at the sheer for the hull reinforcement to lap onto.

Time to turn the two parts into a usable kayak.  I thickened up some epoxy with cabosil, stuffed it into a plastic baggie, clipped a corner and squeezed a bead onto the edge of both the deck and the hull.  I held seams tight with simple lengths of fiber-reinforced packing tape.  No ratchet straps or fancy clamping schemes.  A good fitting seam should pull tight together on it’s own.

I then turned the boat onto the starboard side and taped one inside seam.  I left the Zylon reinforcing run about an inch long creating a flap on the inside.  I used this flap to bond the deck to the hull.  It was a bit stiff and didn’t want to lay flat on it’s own, so I made some miniature sand bags using Zip-lock baggies and clean play sand.  Each one weighed about a pound.  Covered the seam with some plastic wrap and then laid them end to end the entire length of the seam.  The next morning I did the interior port seam.  The interior seam received a finish coat of white graphite like the remainder of the interior.

That afternoon I pulled the tape on the outside, and sanded the exterior joint smooth and two inches on either side of it.  I filled any gaps in the seam with thickened epoxy and then taped the outside seam with bias-cut strips of fiberglass cloth.  The first layer was a 2″ wide strip of 4 oz S-2 glass.  The second was a 3″ wide layer of tight-woven 3.25 oz E glass.  When cured it was sanded lightly and a fill coat of tinted epoxy was applied….

We now have a usable sea kayak.  A bit rough looking, but usable…

Total Construction Time for Final Interior Work and Joining: 14.50 Hours