“Nereida” Njord: Fiberglass Tube Deck Fittings
Mar 11th, 2008 | By Dan (CSFW) | Category: 07.09 "Nereida" Njord (SPAIN)
Work on 3/9/2008
Another operation that was required before I can attach the deck to the hull is to make/install the deck fittings. Once again I’m using the simple fiberglass tube fittings. Essentially a piece of clear, soft PVC tubing is inserted into two holes drilled in the deck and is then covered in epoxy/chopped fiberglass. When cured the tubing is removed leaving a solid tube of fiberglass that is bonded to the inside of the deck. I’ve used them very successfully on the the past three Black Pearls.
Pros: Being solid fiberglass that is cast directly on the inside of the deck they are easy to make, are super strong and 100% waterproof.
Cons: You have to plan how the deck lines will be run as only one deck line can fit through any one fitting.
Like I said, they’re easy to make… Layout is critical. I put some masking tape on the outside of the deck where I want the fittings and then draw on the locations. The Nereida will have a layout similar to what Björn did on his original Njord: three pairs of lines on the front deck and two runs on the back deck. The holes should be between 1-5″ (2.5 – 12.5 cm) apart for the fittings to work. Any closer and the PVC tubing used as a form kinks. Any farther and the same PVC tubing is just about impossible to remove. I then drill oversized holes an plug them with tinted, thickened epoxy. When cured I redrill the holes to the final size of the tubing. This fill form a ring of epoxy between the fitting and the wooden core. One note, 3/8″ OD PVC tubing is NOT 3/8″. It’s about a 1/32″ less. I like a fairly snug but not tight fit so the tubing is easy to remove later…
The deck fitting formed by a length of clear PVC tubing. A section of 1/4″ braided rope is pulled through the tubing to reduce any kinking. I cut the tubing about 2″ longer than required. One end of the tubing is inserted into one hole, the other into the other hole and is pulled tight creating about a 3/8″ gap between the bottom of the loop of tubing and the deck. This will be filled with thickened epoxy and gives the fitting most of its strength.
I now brush on a coat of neat, unthickened epoxy onto each deck fitting and then cover it with some epoxy that has been tinted black and thickened with aerosil, wood flour and chopped fiberglass strand. I like to cover the tube itself with about a 1/16″ of the mix. A small piece of bias-cut 4-oz glass is then laid over the thickened epoxy and wet out with more neat epoxy. The layer of fiberglass cloth does three things: it seals, strengthens and smooths out the surface of the tube fitting. I’ll brush on a neat coat of epoxy later to fill the weave and smooth it further without any sanding.
When cured I pull out the 1/4″ braided rope and start pulling out the tubing. I grab each end of the tubing with pliers and pull moderately stretching the tubing. The idea is to stretch the tubing in the middle of the fitting, reducing it’s diameter, making it easier to remove. One end is pulled tight and then cut off with a knife. Grasp the other end and the remainder of the tubing should pull out in one piece. If it doesn’t come out at all or worse breaks inside…. have fun getting it out… The closer the holes are spaced the easier the tubing come out. These went well…

Thank you for sharing the technique to make recessed kayak deck fittings. I’ll try it.